simplifying

Simplifying Is No Insult To Traditional Methods

Simplifying work methods can help you finish projects faster while still maintaining good quality. If you decide to make use of some simplified methods, it doesn’t reflect in any way on traditional woodworking methods. Nor does it prevent you from using traditional methods for some of your work when a customer is prepared to pay for the extra time involved.

The main objective of simplifying methods is to help refine your woodworking skills to save time, make your work easier, and perhaps increase your profits. All of the methods described in this book are alternatives that are based on many years of experience and you may find them useful.

These alternative, simplified methods are not essential to making money with woodworking. However, they may facilitate faster completion of woodworking projects and this can lead to increased profits without sacrificing quality.

It may help you to better understand the concept of simpler methods if I discuss how these methods evolved for me and some of the basic techniques. Many years ago, when I started my woodworking business, it quickly became evident that it would be difficult for me to make a good living in my area using traditional woodworking methods.

The time involved in building projects using the methods I had learned over the years tended to price me out of the market. It seemed that I either had to find faster methods or settle for a low wage and that was not acceptable to me.

I read a lot when I was starting out so I could learn as much possible. Over time it became clear that only a few woodworkers did well financially building projects using traditional methods. Some of these woodworkers had become well known in their area and others supplemented their income by writing books and creating videos about their work or endorsing products. It seemed to me that unless I could become this well known or famous, it was unlikely that I would be able to make a good living using traditional methods.

I decided to develop methods to complete my work faster and at a lower cost while still maintaining a high degree of quality. I began compiling ideas that would make things simpler and therefore faster. One of the major questions during this effort was, “What kind of joinery can I use on my furniture jobs?” This was an important question because mortise and tenon, dovetails, finger joints, dados, etc. comprise excellent joinery methods but I found them all time-consuming.

It became obvious to me that a strong, attractive, yet simple joinery method was essential for building furniture projects economically. Butt joints are simple and fast but have little strength so they weren’t the answer.

My answer came when I found my first biscuit or plate joiner. Using this fine tool to reinforce the butt joints of various kinds proved to be a workable method for strong and attractive joinery.

This one tool helped me build beautiful projects quickly and easily without nail or screw holes to plug or fill. It takes a little effort to learn how to use a biscuit joiner effectively and efficiently but once learned, it will speed up your work and create strong joinery.

I never considered using dowels even though some wood-workers believe that dowels are a good alternative for other joinery methods. My own experience, and that of several other woodworkers, indicated that dowel joints are inherently weak because they lack adequate long grain glue surface. Dowels are round and most of their glue surfaces wind up against the end grain of boards. Glue does not adhere well to end grain. Therefore, the only part of the dowel that is actually holding is that portion that is glued to the long grain of the wood and this causes weak joints.

Many woodworkers mistakenly use dowels when gluing up boards to create a wide surface. This almost always causes joints to crack when the boards move and the dowels remain in place. In addition to these problems, they also make alignment of pieces difficult and time-consuming. Actually, when a set of boards are glued up properly to make a wide surface, the glue joint becomes stronger than the board itself. To test this yourself, glue up four or five pieces of boards six inches long and clamp them up. When the glue dries, hit the boards over a saw horse or some other hard surface until it breaks. It will always break in a board not the joint. Since the glue joint is stronger than the board, it is pointless to use dowels or anything else for any purpose except ease of alignment.

Chapter 12

Simplifying While Maintaining Quality

Start Quickly and Operate Successfully

The Controversial Nails and Screws

Nails and screws offer an alternative for some cabinets such as those in kitchens. Screw holes can be plugged and nail holes filled. The combination of nails for assembly and screws for strength works well for many kitchens. However, this is definitely not the best answer for fine furniture. Although with shop made plugs it does give an acceptable appearance.

Using A System of Modules

Another way to save time and money building large projects is to build them in modules. This makes it easier to build the project in a small shop and often allows you to deliver and install furniture and cabinets without help.

Over the years, I have worked with many woodworkers. One of the most common mistakes they make is building large projects as one piece. I have seen entertainment centers that would barely fit through a doorway even when turned on the side and kitchen cabinet units that were over eight feet long. Some units were so heavy that it took six people to move.

It is much simpler to build cabinets and furniture in modules that one person can carry. At worst, two people should be able to carry the biggest module. Building in this way makes the job much easier and facilitates the installation.

One of my contracts many years ago involved building all the cabinets for the data center of a large corporation’s branch office. The units had to accommodate six people with their computers, storage and regular desk space. Plus, it included divider walls to afford limited privacy to the employees. The entire job was built at my shop. One person could carry each piece. The installation took two people because some of the cabinets had to be installed a few feet above the floor and a second person made the job easier but I could have done it alone. Once assembled, it appeared to be one large unit.

The resistance to modules stems from the aversion to cabinets that seem to be assembled from a bunch of pieces. You can overcome this problem easily with good design features and a little care. First, make certain that the design gives the impression of one large piece. Secondly, assemble the modules in your shop to make certain everything fits properly. This way you can correct problems at the shop not on the job site. Don’t wait till you get on site to find out that there is a problem with the modules fitting together.

Many years ago I built a very large entertainment center. It was constructed of MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) covered with black, high gloss, plastic laminate. The unit included space for television and video recording equipment, plus a complete audio setup and some storage. The complete unit was 6’ wide, 6’ 6” tall and 26” deep. The extra two inches of depth beyond 24 were to accommodate a wire chase to hide the myriad of wires necessary for the various components. They could not be seen from inside or outside of the unit. The unit had casters so it could be moved from the wall for uncovering the wire chase and making changes.

Since the unit would be in three stacked modules covered by high gloss laminate, it was essential that the modules line up perfectly on site when they were assembled. I accomplished this by assembling the units at the shop without the laminate and using a belt sander to make certain that all the modules lined up at all points.

Once the MDF had been sanded into perfect alignment, I covered the outside surfaces with the high gloss black laminate and checked the final fit by assembling the modules. The completed unit looked like one large entertainment center with the joints almost invisible.

It was difficult for two people to carry the three modules because of the weight of the MDF with the laminate. It would have taken a large crew to move this cabinet as one unit. The completed unit took twelve carpet casters to roll easily and smoothly.

Take the time to design cabinets as modules. Make a sketch of the entire unit and then decide the best way to divide it into workable modules. Once this is decided, you can make the working drawings for the unit. Remember to divide the modules at the point that will be the least conspicuous so the finished appearance will give the impression of one unit.

If You Can't Hide It, Accentuate It

One last trick for building cabinets in modules involves the use of reveals. Sometimes it just isn’t possible to assemble the modules so the unit appears as one large unit. In this case you do something to make the joints part of the design. One method that works well is to adjust the size of the cabinets to accommodate reveals. Make ¼-inch thick strips, place them between the modules, and recess them about ¼-inch. You can make these a different color as an accent but they work fine the same color as the project. The recess creates a shadow making the recess darker and it gives a very good appearance. It simply takes attention from the module joints by converting them to design features.

Painting

Painting is another finishing option that works well for some projects. Small projects can be painted with spray cans. When spraying or brushing paint, always use a primer for the first coat and then sand all the surfaces smooth before applying a quality enamel. It is disappointing to see how many paint jobs are of obviously poor quality because there was no sanding between coats.

Years ago I built a complete kitchen for a customer who requested an unfinished job. Members of the family were going to apply the finish later. I advised the customer to allow me to finish the cabinets or at least accept my advice about how to get a good paint job. Instead members of the family applied the finish and obviously failed to properly prepare the surfaces. They didn’t use a primer to seal the wood and there was no sanding between coats. The result was unattractive and the surfaces felt like sandpaper. The real issue for me was that when others were told I built the cabinets they might assume I also applied the finish.

Spraying

The best and easiest to use tool for spraying wood cabinets and furniture with a clear coat is a HVLP (high volume low pressure) spray unit. However, spraying has its complexities and safety issues. There is a learning curve required for properly using a spray gun even though some think it is just point and shoot. Before starting to spray actual jobs, practice on various surfaces to get the feel for it and to see how the finish falls on the surface. This practice will help you become proficient at spraying.

With all finishes you must consider harmful vapors and flammability. This is especially true of lacquer finishes. Avoid spraying lacquer unless you have a safe and properly ventilated area to finish your projects. And always wear the correct respirator for the finish being used.

In addition to good ventilation and a high quality respirator, make certain your equipment is designed so it doesn’t cause sparks that could set off the combustible sprayed lacquer. I strongly suggest that you learn how to use lacquer products properly and safely before spraying any projects with them.

Also consider the regulations in your community regarding the use of lacquer sprays. In some areas you must have a specially designed spray booth to legally spray lacquer. Check local regulations to avoid problems with local code enforcement.

Finishing Methods

How you finish each of your projects is critically important. There are many different kinds of finishes and you probably have a favorite already. If your choice provides professional results that satisfy you and your customers, by all means continue to use it.

My favorite finish for natural wood is simply a clear coat. Before the clear coat, you can apply a stain. Wood stains come in many types and colors. I like the MinWax brand but there are many others. Most stains need to dry overnight before you can apply a clear coat but you can get water based stains that dry in one hour.

When selecting a stain color remember that it will look different depending on the color and grain of the wood. Your project may turn out a little darker or lighter than the sample that you saw in the store. Use a scrap piece to test the color. Before beginning, stir the stain thoroughly. The pigment has a tendency to settle to the bottom of the container. Using it without stirring will give a washed out and splotched look.

To prepare for staining, uniform sanding is critical. Sand the entire project evenly. Do not apply excessive pressure to a power sander during this job. Friction builds up when power sanding and if the sandpaper gets worn it will simply shine the surface instead of sanding it. These shiny spots will not take the stain well causing lighter areas on the surface. To avoid this, change sandpaper often and do not apply excessive pressure. It is a false economy to use sandpaper beyond its effective life.

Splotching appears on many wood surfaces. To avoid splotching, it often helps to apply a pre-stain coat. This can be mixed from your clear coat but it’s best to keep things simple by purchasing a pre-stain product. Remember that this product will seal the wood slightly to keep the stain on the surface from splotching. This can cause the stain color to be lighter needing more than one coat.

Once the stain is applied, wipe off the excess with t-shirt rags. Wipe the surface completely making certain no streaks are left. If the stain dries before being wiped, the streaks can only be removed with paint or lacquer thinner and this will require additional staining.

After wiping, allow the stain to dry overnight, unless the instructions indicate otherwise. Do not sand the stained surface before applying the first coat of clear. Sanding at this time can cause unsightly lightened areas.

Once the stain is dry, apply a clear sanding sealer according to the instructions on the container. While you can simply apply a first coat of whatever clear coat product you are using, a sanding sealer will improve your finish, be easier to sand, and provide a better base for the last coat of clear finish.

After the sanding sealer dries completely, sand the surface by hand using a 400-grit sandpaper until the surface feels smooth as glass. Now you are ready to apply the final clear coat.

The clear coat should be brushed only with the grain of the wood and not over brushed. Just spread it as evenly as possible, thick enough so it will flow out but not so thick that it runs. When using fast drying clear coats, don’t go back to brush completed areas because they will already be semi dry and brushing will leave deep and unsightly brush marks.

For some jobs a third coat may be a good idea. If you decide to apply another coat, sand exactly as you did previously before applying the next coat. For this last coat you can use a 600-grit sandpaper for a super smooth finish.

Bartley’s Gel Varnish

There are many other readily available finishing products for cabinets and furniture. Bartley's Gel Varnish is an excellent but more time-consuming product. This product has many unique advantages. In addition to clear, it comes in various stain colors making it a combination stain and clear coat in a gel form. It can be applied with a brush or a rag and has a long open time making it easy to control. It has a six-hour drying time under normal conditions.

The most important advantage of Bartley's Gel Varnish is that it does not raise the grain of the wood when it is applied. One of the disadvantages is that it is priced considerably higher than other finishes and requires more coats to attain a semi-gloss finish.

Bartley’s Gel Varnish is an excellent product for staining and finishing but not the best choice for a high gloss finish. Even after many coats it only attains a semi-gloss.

Deft Clear Wood Finish

This is an excellent, fast drying, clear coat product. It is basically a brushing lacquer that performs well if you follow the instructions carefully. Brush it on with a quality brush and allow it to flow out. It dries quite rapidly and it’s critical not to go back and brush areas that have begun drying to avoid ugly brush marks that are impossible to remove without removing the entire finish. Another issue with Deft Clear Wood Finish is that it has a strong odor and vapors so it should be applied in a well ventilated area while wearing a respirator.

Deft does have a water based clear coat call Wood Armor. It works quite well but unlike Deft Wood Finish it doesn’t work well in colder temperatures. It should be at least 65 degrees to apply this product.

Thanks for reading this chapter. I hope you found it informative. You can get my book Woodworking Business: Start Quickly And Operate Successfully now by clicking on the order now button below. Thank You.

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